March 11, 2012

Idaho, Utah and Colorado in 2010


In 2010 during the last week of September I was aiming to take a trip to Idaho.  I was going to the Sawtooth Mountain Range in Idaho’s central region (how does a state shaped like that have regions?) to spend a week hiking.  This was the week before school started, so I was pretty stoked to get out and enjoy things before getting back to the grind.  Somewhere in the mix of planning and getting ready to go a friend said he had an interest in coming along.  He had different hopes for this trip, but we agreed on Idaho as a starting spot.  We had six days to do whatever and we we would play it by ear.

We were going to leave at night, and as I headed over to pick my friend up he expressed a worry about some throat issues he had been having.  I slept at his house and we agreed to leave in the morning.  In the AM we started the long drive.  We’re headed down the Gorge and my friend casually tells me to pull over at the dam.  He whips out his cell phone and tells his work he’s sick (which he truly was) and won’t be coming in.  That, in my head, was like the official start of the trip.  The thing about this trip that made time ease by was Seinfeld.  My buddy had his laptop, and I had an FM transmitter and a power inverter.  These paired he could watch Seinfeld with the car speakers, and I had seen them all so I could pretty much watch them in my head with the sound.

We drove all day on 84 and then hit a windy(the twisty kind, not the gusty kind) highway that brought us into the Sawtooth Range.  That mountain range was pretty impressive, and it was obvious why they call it the Sawtooth Range.  We drove around a bit until my colleague noticed a peak.  We took a gravel road towards this peak and drove for a while until we came to a parking area.  My key memory here was that in Oregon we have smooth gray basalt; out in Idaho they had granite.  I was tying my shoes and I BRUSHED my leg gingerly against some granite, and then I was bleeding.  The granite was aggressive and jagged.  Anyways, we set up camp next to a spot on the trail.

The next morning I woke up, had some breakfast, and heard my buddy going, “Hyokkkkkkkkkkk, HYOKKKKKKKKK!!”  Then he asked me to peer down his throat with a flashlight.  I scoped it out and things were swollen, but he was alright enough.  We picked a peak and left the trail.  We headed in the general direction through the vegetation and then up some talus slopes.  The rocks there were awesome.  I picked up some huge chunks of Feldspar rich rock.  This is the downside to hiking for me,  I pick up big samples and by the time I get back to my car I’ve got an extra 5-10 pounds in my pack.  We took some breaks and got to the top of this peak.  Looking out was amazing.  It was different types of peaks in every direction.  Numerous lakes, peaks, and trees as far as one could see.  We hiked down to the highest lake on the true trail and followed it back to the car.  Beautiful stop in Idaho: check.  We got back on the road and drove the rest of the day to a random campsite in Utah.  We set up camp, some Seinfeld was watched, and sleep was had.

In the morning we packed up camp.  Once again I performed a flashlight throat swelling inspection and then we hit the road again and drove through Wyoming.  The only notable things in Wyoming were stopping at the Sierra Trading Post store in Cheyenne, and a lightning storm near the Wyoming-Colorado border.  We got to Colorado, crossed through the great divide (it was a tunnel through the mountain), and stopped at a Wendy’s for lunch and to use the WiFi to find a trail location.  We found a trail and headed there.  In the parking lot we packed all our gear, it would be a lot colder at this altitude (my car was parked higher than the summit of Mt hood).  We hiked in the dark to make decent head way.  We found the most protected area, but it was still rocky most places and hard to sink tent stakes.  My Harbor Freight tarp had last a long time; Colorado destroyed it.  The wind ripped grommets from the force and flapping.  I was reaching out of my sleeping bag trying to rig it by hand.  We finally got to sleep.  In the middle of the night my friend stirred… “Justin, Justin, are you awake?”
“Yeah”
“I need to pee.”
I didn’t really understand this comment but whatever. I returned a confused, “OK?”
“I need to pee, but there’s a mountain goat outside of my tent, it’s freaking me out.”  There was more to this; I can’t remember exactly what concerns were expressed but I’m sure it involved fears of the mountain goat turning violent and a brutal mountain battle of man versus beast.

Eventually dawn came and we headed out up the trail to Torreys Peak and Grays Peak.  This trail was pretty awesome in that it was two mountains connected by a saddle.  The two mountains differed by an elevation of nine feet, which is pretty awesome considering the mountains had completely different stages of erosion.   I was a bit slower than my hiking pal so he would take frequent breaks and let me get closer; it was cold enough that he couldn’t stop moving long enough to let me catch all the way up.  That part that gets me was that I was struggling along while this guy’s throat was swollen to who knows how much, and I still couldn’t keep up with him.  We got to the summit and looked out over the mountains of Colorado.  Beautiful stop in Colorado: check.  The funny part is that the summit we were on was 14,278 feet, but the state sits so high you’d never guess you were anywhere near that high up.  We took in the view, ate some lunch, and headed back to camp to pack up.  After packing up we hiked back to the car and set off down the road to Utah.

We drove to Canyon Lands National Park near Moab, Utah.  The National Park campground was full so we turned around.  It was a long ways back to the highway so we were hunting for a place to camp.  We found some BLM land and found a spot to camp there.  This area had hard clay like ground.  My friend broke a tent stake (heavy duty aluminum one) trying to hammer it into the ground.  With my tarp in shambles from the vicious Colorado wind I had elected to bust out my actual tent.  Thankfully it didn’t rain because my tent couldn’t take it, and also because I’m pretty sure this was BLM land because it was prone to flash flooding.  More Seinfeld was watched and then we went to sleep.  In the middle of the night one of my tent poles tell over because the stake wasn’t deep enough in the hard ground.  I didn’t care and went back to sleep.  An aside about this spot is that it was a spectacular camping spot.  We were next to a fairly large feature that we could climb on to take pictures.  The view out was amazing. 

In the morning we went to Canyon Lands (the less touristy south part).  We found an 11 mile roundtrip trail that led to a over look into the canyon.  We set out on the hike.  Early on we passed a couple in their 30’s, the woman was complaining about the steepness getting down the initial part of the trail.  At one point on the hike there was a permanent steel ladder.  There was a lot of climbing down, jumping up, and long flat areas.  We got to the overlook at looked out into the canyon.  The view was down into the canyon at the Colorado River and Green River confluence.  We sat for a while and ate lunch and enjoyed the amazing view.  Beautiful stop in Utah: check.  On the way back the clouds looked aggressive so we rapped cell phones and cameras into my rain jacket inside my pack.  I think it rain quite heavily for a few minutes and then cleared up again.  The trail back was back tracking the original trail.  We never passed the couple again from the start of the hike, they must have turned around.  We drove out of Canyon Lands and drove into Arches which was very close.  The rain had set in again so we stopped at some close to the road attractions and snapped some pictures.  We did a hike that was about ¾ mile long and that finished it.  The rain was too much after all the days of hiking; we were done.  We drove through the rest of Utah and into Idaho.  As night fell we couldn’t find anywhere to camp, it was all farm land.  We found a rest area with an interpretive area attached to it.  We were there late enough and planned on leaving early enough, so we just threw some sleeping bags on the grass and slept there.  I woke up at some point in the night feeling cold; I went to sleep in the car. 

I woke up early and roused my friend.  We hit the road again and drove all the way back to Oregon.  The trip was done.  We had driven a little over 3,000 miles in six days.  We had climbed peaks in Idaho and Colorado and covered a long trail in Utah; it was a great trip.  I never planned to drive over that much ground in those six days, but I was glad it worked out that way.  As another aside my friend’s throat was a pretty big issue, the flash light routine was a regular daily occurrence.  He was taking Ibuprofen pretty regularly for swelling.  It was known in the back of our heads that maybe we’d have to find a hospital at some point.  This guy never complained the entire trip.  He was along to explore, just as much as I was.    Some people are born troopers.
Here's the link to some pictures from the trip:

March 08, 2012

The Olympic Peninsula in 2010

I went to the Olympic Peninsula in early September of 2010.  This was really the first trip I took where I was carrying enough stuff to last me several days.  I left Portland very early, probably around 4am and drove to the Olympics.  I made several stops at view points, large trees, and picking up my pass from the ranger station, so I got started at the trail later than planned. 

Hiking into the Hoh rainforest didn’t seem too much different than the Columbia River Gorge, it was inviting.  I took a few food breaks during my hike in and also stopped a few places to look at rocks in the dried stream channels.  I stopped at the 9-mile camp and talked to a ranger for a while and got some ideas for a next few days, and what I had gotten myself into.  Later into the hike, probably around 12 miles, things started getting steeper.  Around 15 miles things got A LOT steeper.  I passed the 2nd to last camp and then… I got to the “chute”.  This was a huge ladder rig with steel cables for the huge 4”x4” steps, and a rope running down the side to hold on to.  My pack weighed about 35 pounds, so this was an interesting experience to navigate.  I got down just fine, but now realized why people tended to camp at the previous camp and hike to the glacier in the morning without overnight gear.  After 18 miles total, I got to camp and set up gear and ate quickly before dark.  It was a weird night; I was the only person at this area made for 50 people.  In the night I woke twice, I was physically shivering.  My sleeping bag was questionable for this elevation at this time of year.  I remember staring at my backpack and knowing where extra clothes where, but it took me a good few minutes to make the move out of the bag to put on a pair of leggings and a fleece.
I woke up a lot later than planned.  I had slept 14 hours because I was so exhausted.  I hiked up to the glacier view and was amazed.  The view out to the three Mt Olympus peaks was beautiful.  I was the only person up on the moraine; I stayed for a while taking some pictures and just sitting there looking out at the mountains.  After soaking up the view I returned to camp, packed up, and hiked the rest of the day back to 9-mile camp.  I spent some time talking to the ranger from the previous day and then hit the sack.
I woke up to the most terrible sound ever.  Rain was pounding down violently on my tarp; it was non-stop.  I lay in my warm dry sleeping bag for a while, but I knew I had to get back to my car today.  Nine miles back to my car, I could do it.  I packed up under my small tarp, saving it for last.  I threw on rain gear and strapped my tarp to my bag and took off.  There was so much rain that it had filled the trough of the trail.  My shoes where soaked through after about 3 minutes in that rain.  It rained all day; my feet went splish splish the entire time.  I stopped in the emergency shelter I had passed on the way in and ate lunch.  I made it back to my car and realized I couldn’t get to my intended next spot by the end of the day.  I draped my rain gear (which kept me bone dry), my sleeping bag, and anything that had gotten wet over my car seats and blasted the heat on the drive north.  It got so incredibly humid in my car during the several hour drive.  I drove to a “car camp site” and used my tent (I wasn’t using a tent in the woods, so it was dry) for the night.  I was around normal people again, it was annoying.  Kids being idiots, parents being idiots, I was stuck there for the night.
The next two nights were on the beach.  It was easy ground to cover with about 5-8 miles needed per day.  The one unique thing was that the first night’s beach was only reachable during low tide.  At night it felt interesting to know you couldn’t leave even if you wanted to.  On this beach I talked to some people who hiked along the coast for a couple days.  They hadn’t paid enough attention to the tides and had to ford a river at high tide.  They had gear all spread out on logs to dry in the sun when I arrived.  One old hippie guy asked me to “sit down and share my soul”; this was a strange way to request some conversation.  I had nothing better to do so I talked to him for a while. 
On the hike between beach camps I found a sea lion skeleton.  It was pretty awesome.  I stared at it for about half an hour (I’m not going to lie, I played with some pieces).  After my second coast night I hiked back to my car and drove to Hurricane Ridge to take in the view over the mountain range.  I opted to drive home since it was Friday and the beginning over the Labor Day weekend.  I didn’t want to deal with the long weekend hikers. Gross.  I went home and slept in my own bed for one night.  I went to the Bend area on Saturday to go up Paulina Peak and look over Newberry Crater and went climbing at Smith Rock on Sunday.  Never go climbing at Smith Rock on Labor Day weekend! 
It was an awesome vacation.  I learned a couple things on the trip.  Tarps are good, I was glad I had mine.  I now sleep with a base layer loose between my sleeping bag and bivy in case I need to put it on in the night, then I don’t need to reach more than an arm out of my sleeping bag.  On a long trip having an extra dry tent in my car turned out to be a life saver.  The trip also got me into the groove of using a bivy sack.  I would turn it inside out and hang it and my sleeping bag each morning while I packed up and ate breakfast.  Carrying a book is nice in case you get to camp super early.
That’s really it.  Like I said, it was an awesome trip.  It would make a good multiday trip with a group (to the glacier), but with different mile pacing.  I hope to type up some things about my road trip to Colorado and my road trip to Canada as well.  Then from here on out I’ll throw up some summaries of eventful trips.  This Olympic trip summary may not have been the most entertaining… but it was a few years ago… and I was alone. 
Here's the link to some pictures from the trip: